Those stubborn dark patches on your face? It could be melasma, a type of hyperpigmentation that affects roughly 5 million people in the United States — 90 percent women. If you’re anxiously searching for answers on how to get rid of it or at least minimize its appearance, you’re in good company!
While annoying and frustrating, there are several melasma treatments that can help fade areas of pigmentation, thanks to extensive research and advancements made by skin experts and dermatologists. Because melasma shows up differently from person to person, there’s no one-size-fits-all approach to treatment. What works for literally everyone else you know may not work for you.
Simply said, the best melasma treatment for your face is completely unique to you. Since everyone’s skin responds uniquely to treatment, it can be tough to narrow down what’s worth spending your time and money on. We’ve said it before and we’ll keep on saying it: your skin is an investment, and if you’re dealing with suspected melasma on your face, you’ll likely need to invest some time and research into finding the right treatment.
We’ll break it all down for you: what melasma is (and isn’t), what causes it to show up, and which treatment options may be worth exploring.
What is melasma?
Melasma is a common skin condition that appears as a dark patch on the face when there’s an overproduction of melanin. To clarify, while all melasma is hyperpigmentation, not all hyperpigmentation is melasma. Knowing the difference is the first step to finding the treatment approach that’s right for you.
Hyperpigmentation is one of the most searched-for skin concerns out there, with over 100,000 Google searches a month and melasma-related searches are Googled just as much. So, like we said, you’re in good company.
Hyperpigmentation is a broad term used to describe an area of skin with darker coloring caused by excess melanin. There are three common types of hyperpigmentation: melasma, sunspots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (often caused by acne). Melasma is one of the most challenging forms of hyperpigmentation to treat because its underlying causes are often beyond our control, and it has a high likelihood of recurring.
You can tell if the pigmentation is melasma because it typically shows up as symmetrical, blotchy patches of brown or gray skin on your cheeks, forehead and upper lip, but it can appear anywhere on your face. Though not as common, some people get it throughout their upper body. If you suspect that’s what your dark patches are, a dermatologist will be able to confirm for you using ultra-violet light.
What causes melasma?
There’s a bit of a mystery about what causes melasma, and it may require process of elimination to get down to the bottom of what’s causing yours. We know that genetics play a significant role, and you are more likely to get it if you have darker skin or if it runs in your family.
We also know that hormones play a big part. Melasma is often called the “pregnancy mask” because it can appear during pregnancy. It often shows up in the second or third trimester due to a rapid rise in estrogen and progesterone. It’s not uncommon for it to also appear in the first trimester or after birth. Birth control and hormone replacement therapy can also have an effect because of fluctuations in hormone levels.
Genetics and hormones usually cause melasma, but sun exposure and heat trigger it. In fact, your melasma could be hormonal, but you might not see it show up until sun or heat exposure brings it to the surface.
Melasma treatments
Unfortunately, there is no permanent cure for melasma. It’s known to reoccur, but it can be managed effectively in most cases. Several approaches to treatment exist, and finding the right one will take both patience and trial and error.
If you think you may be dealing with melasma, it’s best to consult a dermatologist who can confirm and pinpoint the type of melasma that you have. Dermatologists use a handheld blacklight device called a Wood’s lamp to see how deep the pigmentation goes. The deeper the pigmentation, the harder it is to treat.
Your first line of defense against melasma is sun protection. Melasma can be prevented and managed with regular sunscreen (physical mineral sunscreen SPF50+ is key!) and by avoiding direct sun-to-skin exposure (wear a wide-brimmed hat outdoors!).
You may also want to consider avoiding places that use extreme heat like saunas and hot yoga classes since heat exposure is also known to provoke pigment.
Those steps are preventive and simple, but you cannot avoid melasma caused by genes or hormones, which is a bummer. Still, you can manage flare-ups and fade dark spots. We’ll discuss that next.
Topical treatments for melasma
To reduce the visibility of dark patches, dermatologists will often prescribe hydroquinone, a skin bleaching cream that’s proven to be effective in many melasma cases. Hydroquinone is available in various strengths, usually prescribed between 2 to 4 percent, but severe cases may need up to 6 to 12 percent concentration. Keep in mind that hydroquinone is meant to be used for a few months at a time before cycling off. Continuous use can lead to permanent skin discoloration.
Azelaic acid is another common method used to treat melasma. Because melasma can show up with inflammation (especially after too much sun), azelaic acid’s calming, anti-inflammatory properties can be effective. Unlike hydroquinone, it has been marked safe for pregnant women.
Tretinoin is a powerful retinol that’s used to treat many skin conditions, melasma included. It encourages skin cell to turn over so the pigmented layers shed and reveal brighter skin below. Typically, a dermatologist would prescribe it as part of a trifecta approach along with hydroquinone and azelaic acid.
Chemical peels for melasma
Chemical peels are another option worth considering. A chemical peel uses a combination of acids to gently remove surface pigment, speed up cell turnover, and help reduce melanin production over time — all of which can make a noticeable difference for melasma-prone skin.
A quick note: peels are considered a medical treatment, so do your research before booking an appointment. Estheticians can safely perform lighter, surface-level peels using lower-concentration acids like glycolic, lactic, or salicylic acid, while dermatologists and plastic surgeons handle deeper peels that go further into the skin. Good news for melasma: most people see the best results from lighter to medium-depth peels, which means a medspa or dermatologist visit is usually all you need.
Common options include glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, and trichloroacetic acid (TCA) — your provider can help determine which combination is the right fit for your skin.
Oral treatments for melasma
If you’re experiencing stubborn melasma and other treatments haven’t budged those dark patches, your dermatologist may recommend tranexamic acid, an oral medication that controls bleeding, but has also proven very effective in slowing melanin production. Tranexamic acid can also be given as a topical treatment, but if you’re looking for faster results, the pill is your best bet (provided your dermatologist or doctor is on board).
Laser treatments for melasma
Lasers can break up clusters of melanin cells by targeting dark patches with low-energy pulses. It’s a tempting option since it typically offers quicker results than other treatments.
But proceed with caution: lasers use heat which can trigger melanin production and worsen melasma — that’s the last thing you need! This is why laser treatments for melasma have mixed reviews and results.
If you decide to go this route, seek an experienced professional and make sure they understand the many nuances of treating melasma.
Waxing the City’s treatment for skin brightening
This is where our Bryght® Lightening Treatment comes in. Instead of relying on heat from lasers or aggressive treatments, Bryght® works by targeting the enzyme responsible for excess melanin production; this approach targets discoloration gently and consistently, making it a smart option for melasma-prone skin that needs a careful touch. And because it only brightens areas that are darker than your natural skin, you’ll leave glowing like you — not lightened all over.
During a Bryght® treatment, our Cerologists work with you to address dark patches while supporting your skin’s natural tone and texture. It’s not an overnight fix (remember: melasma responds best to slower, conservative treatments), but with a series of treatments and consistent home care — daily SPF, a solid skincare routine, and patience — many clients start to see their skin looking brighter and more even over time.
The best part? Because it’s a professional treatment guided by trained experts, you’re not left guessing which approach is right for your skin. We’ll help you build a plan that makes sense for your melasma, instead of a generic routine that might work against it.
Finding the right approach to treat melasma requires patience and trial-and-error — and once you find something that works, staying consistent between treatments is what makes the results last. No matter what approach you take, SPF and sun protection are non-negotiables.
Our pros answer your questions
No, there is not a cure for melasma, but it can be managed successfully and kept under control. Because it’s linked to hormones and is easily triggered by sun or heat exposure, it tends to be a long-term skin concern rather than something you fix once.
Yes and no. Sun exposure is a trigger, but it’s not the root cause. Hormones are likely the underlying cause in almost all melasma cases, but it comes to the surface where you can see it from exposure to the sun. Sun damage can cause other types of hyperpigmentation though.
It depends on treatment and varies from person to person, but melasma is usually pretty slow to respond — think weeks to months, not days. Consistency is everything here: sticking with your treatment plan and daily SPF will get you further than any single treatment session.
Yes, melasma has a high likelihood of returning. This is because the things that trigger it (sun and heat) are a part of our everyday lives. Plus, fluctuations in hormones are common throughout various phases of life. That’s why routine maintenance like daily SPF application and periodic touch-up appointments are important.
Any sunscreen is better than no sunscreen, but when it comes to melasma, chemical sunscreen doesn’t quite cut it. Instead, look for broad-spectrum mineral sunscreen with iron oxide. Also called physical sunscreen, this type physically blocks visible light and UV rays. Don’t forget to keep reapplying throughout the day.
Bryght® is a great fit for anyone dealing with stubborn dark patches or uneven tone, including melasma-prone skin, as long as you’re ready to commit to a treatment series and consistent home care. Your Cerologist can help determine the right plan for your specific skin during a consultation.
Ready to even out your skin tone? Find the WTC location nearest you to book a Bryght® Lightening Treatment.
